Project 2A centres on collaboration; a very current concept within the fashion industry. The aim is to take elements of my initial research into the industry and my core values and develop a deeper understanding of fashion's most potent messages. What are those messages; who are the messengers and where are they coming from?
I looked at sustainability and refusing to buy new in my previous project… Now, I want to develop my understanding of sustainability and how I can enhance that through collaboration. Fashion attracts interest in many ways - my research will focus on sustainability and up-cycling as counter-balances to fast fashion.
To start my research I will establish key people that inspire me and identify potential collaboration-partners. Key questions are:
- which designers truly have sustainability at their core?
-are there any charities active in this area?
- which venues would best provide a practical and visual platform?
When thinking of designers, I focus on less known, new and up and coming designers to add originality, fresh insights and images and chose to avoid 'big names' as they could be rather dull and come from the old, non-sustainable past. I came up with a diverse long-list of potentials…
Whilst it is early in this project I have reviewed my earlier research and from that developed a questionnaire on fast fashion. Data from that questionnaire will help narrow down the list of potential collaboration partners across venues, retailers, designers and charities .
Key issues related to fast fashion include social and labour issues in the production phase and then environmental and waste issues at the end of the garments' short lives. Despite these problems, demand for new garments increases. Through my survey I want to find out peoples' opinions on fast fashion: how they view it; if they truly know the real cost and ultimately are they open to sustainability - if so what lengths are they willing to go to satisfy their needs and wants from second-hand options?
I asked 20 people, chosen at random, some key questions around sustainability, to understand how others interpret the term and identify who is willing to make a change. What does it take to be eco-conscious? Is sustainability a common factor when purchasing garments? Do we truly think before we buy?
DATA ABOVE AND AXES
From looking at the results of my survey, it seems the majority are aware of what effects fast fashion has on the world and feel it important to try to avoid purchasing from these brands. When asked if fast fashion is problematic, everyone agreed; 2 said, however, ” it is often the cheapest alternative” and it is ” low cost and affordable”. Personally I disagree with these statements, in my view, you are far better off buying clothing from charity shops where most items are under £5! A stand out answer to me was that hardly any people had said their wardrobe contained vintage/second-hand clothing. It is an issue I am trying to understand, if you don’t agree with fast fashion and you are aware ( as we established everyone was) of the effect, why are people not buying second hand? When asking how many items of clothing they typically purchase a year the majority said between 1-40, this seems like a reasonable estimate especially for those not very interested in fashion.
The majority would say they are 50-70% eco-conscious when purchasing garments, this surprised me as looking at the results from a prior response ( 10-30% of the majority’s wardrobe is second hand). When asking what others thought were the main impacts of fast fashion, the environment and the workers came up the most so that is a relief that my and the participants' views coincide! With old clothes, it seems 90% would donate or sell them which is great only 2 said they would throw them away (if they were in an unwearable state). Many would buy into trends occasionally if they genuinely like them, which is good, but it seems everyone is still heavily swayed by trends. When purchasing garments the key criteria that came out on top were that it had to be durable, cost-effective and reusable. The vintage and second hand wasn’t as much a priority, but at least it showed that others do understand not to buy clothing you will only wear once.
After analysing each question, I think the main take-away is there seems to be a gap. Despite the survey respondents acknowledging the issues associated with fast fashion brands, many don't seem to know how to best move forward from this. I think many don't realise buying second hand can be the answer, you can find so many incredible affordable pieces that more often than not are 'one of a kind' ( what more could you want?). I believe there needs to be something in the middle to connect this informed market with the second-hand opportunity. In addition you have these incredible designers producing collection after collection - keeping the industry bursting with creations to talk about. Then you have second-hand, vintage shopping, which is vital to avoid waste. Bringing awareness of all these aspects is my goal throughout this project and ultimately I want to find out for myself if there is a better way of doing this? I am going to start researching stand out designers, to see who would be the best for me to collaborate with.
Bethany Williams
Bethany Williams is no stranger to being a sustainability advocate within the fashion industry, the environment is always at the core of her menswear designs. By exploring social and environmental issues within her practices this enables her to come up with new and innovative design solutions for sustainability. Bethany has produced many collections with a strong mindset including some collaborations with companies such as Selfridges. Recently partnering with them on a capsule coat collection featuring bespoke upcycled coats.
Matty Bovan
Matty Bovan is renowned for hand crafting one-off special pieces in his Yorkshire based studio. As a designer he talks about feeling responsible to help combat the mass production that goes on within the heart of the fashion industry. Everything he creates is made within Yorkshire by his small, local team; yarns are hand-dyed in house, ensuring minimal water use, then sent out to local knitters. Once returned back to his studio Matty hand paints on the garments and then they are ready. Regularly visiting his suppliers to check everything is going the way he has planned, he is also diligent about limiting waste.
Kevin Germanier
Kevin Germanier is being dubbed the new eco-couturier, and after seeing his designs and sustainable approach to fashion I can see why. When Kevin started at CSM he was unable to buy new fabric, therefore every piece of fabric he ever bought was second-hand. It wasn't about being sustainable at first, it was a way of making ends meet. Realising he may be onto something, he continued using deadstock fabric, old Swarovski crystals (they have an ongoing partnership since he graduated) whatever he is donated he makes work. Having a strict ‘no black’ rule his designs are colourful, loud and in your face.
Patrick McDowell
Patrick McDowell whilst interning at Burberry was shocked at how much fabric they waste every season (wasted fabric in their production process is around 70%. This angered him and he felt he had to do something. Writing to Christopher Bailey at Burberry he expressed his views on the matter, Burberry later sent him all the waste fabric and even offered him a job too. He feels passionate about sustainability striving for 100% transparency within his company, something he feels strongly that every brand within the industry should be doing too. McDowell is keen to make sustainable fashion fun and interesting, using bright colours, distorted unusual shapes, but expert tailoring of course.
Charlie McCosker
Charlie McCosker a recent CSM graduate has been going back to her roots to create sustainable, upcycled, expertly tailored garments. Combining her Irish and South African roots, her designs exhibit a fusion of sustainability and inventive silhouettes. Using deadstock fabric, materials and objects (such as stirrups) resulting in her executing innovative, boundary-pushing designs.
Paula Mihovilovic
Paula Mihovilovic draws inspiration from her Croatian heritage and moods to create visionary, unmatched designs. Her creations may be compared to the likes of John Galliano or Jean Paul Gaultier, but you can’t argue that they stand out from the crowd. Using deadstock vintage fabric from her home where her parents used to run a clothing company, she creates a tumultuous blend of tailoring and millinery within her designs. The Alexander McQueen Scholar is at the top of her game leading a new age of masterful creatives.
Ethical Trading Initiative
ETI was created in 1998 by a small group of creatives alongside ASDA, Premier Brands, The Body Shop, Littlewoods and Sainsbury's. From that handful of pioneers, their members now comprise of over 90 companies, collectively reaching nearly ten million workers across the globe. ETI came about in the mid-1990s when several trade unions, NGO campaigns and media highlighted the exploitation of the workers creating clothing and shoes for retailers around the world. The aim was to form an alliance of organisations globally that could work together to define how major companies should implement their codes of labour practice in the most beneficial way to the workers.
Remake
Remake is a charity set up to make sustainability accessible and inclusive across their three pillars of work: education, advocacy and education. Creating films, stories and lectures to help people worldwide engage on fashion’s impacts on garment workers and the climate. They lead campaigns to unlock the truths about issues such as living wages, gender equality and climate justice. Creating the #PayUp campaign they unlocked $22 billion of unpaid contracts during the pandemic, mobilizing signatures and protecting the women who make our clothing. Reguarly hosting events with the public, to spread knowledge, bring change to the industry and working with the press.
Environmental Justice Foundation
The Environmental Justice Foundation is a non-governmental organisation founded in 2001 by Steve Trent and Juliette Williams, focusing on protecting the environment and human rights. Its work covers 5 main areas: illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing; pesticide use; cotton production; shrimp farming; and climate refugees. The foundation makes direct links between developed countries' demand for cheap food and products and degraded natural environments in developing countries. Much of the foundations work is centered around training and equipping others to report, record and investigate abuse and then campaign appropriately to highlight and resolve the issues.
Fashion Takes Action
Fashion Takes Action is an non-profit organisation set up in 2007 to advance sustainability in the fashion industry. The 5 principles of FTA; Transparent, Inclusive, Innovative, Motivational, Economical. Since 2007 FTA has worked with over 2,000 apparel companies and entrepenuers, participated in over 250 events, collaborated with academics, NGOs and various industry stake holders and received millions of media impressions.
Fashion and Textile Museum
The Fashion and Textile Museum was set up by Dame Zandra Rhodes in 2003, it is the only museum in the UK dedicated to showing contemporary fashion and textile design. It is currently exhibiting Beautiful People: The Boutique in the 1960s Counterculture. Some previous exhibitions include; Missoni Art Colour ( 6 May - 4 September 2016), Knitwear: From Chanel to Westwood ( 19 September 2014 - 18 january 2015).
Whitechapel Gallery
Whitechapel gallery is a public art gallery designed by Charles Harrison Townsend in 1901 as one of the first publicly funded galleries for exhibitions in London. Some notable exhibitions include; 1956 This is Tomorrow, 1970&1971 David Hockney retrospective.
Camden Arts Centre
Camden Arts Centre (previously known as Hampstead Arts centre until 1967) is a contemporary art gallery. The building was opened in 1897 by its benefactor Sir Henry Harben, then Deputy Chairman of the Prudential Assurance Company. The Victorian structure funded by Harben survived World War II, despite hits by incendiary bombs in 1940 and the blast from a V2 rocket in 1945. Martin Clark is the current Director (since 2017).
Stanley Picker Gallery
Stanley Picker Gallery at Kingston University is one of the leading university galleries and commissioning venues in the UK, working with artists, designers, students, academics and members of the local community. Established in 1997 with the ongoing support of the Stanley Picker Trust, the Gallery forms part of the Arts Council England’s National Portfolio and is a principal cultural interface between Kingston University.
Selfridges
Selfridges was founded back in 1908 by Harry Gordon Selfridge and its first store on Oxford Street opened on 15th March 1909. The flagship store is the second largest in the UK and since 1909 three others have been opened in Manchester(2) and Birmingham. Harry wanted to dismantle the beliefs that consumerism was only apparent within America, he wanted to make shopping a fun and enjoyable experience that didnt feel like a chore.
Fast Fashion FAQ
I am going to produce a fast fashion FAQ, to create a greater knowledge and understanding of fast fashion.
- What is the definition of fast fashion?
Inexpensive clothing produced rapidly by mass-market retailers in response to the latest trends.
- How often do fashion trends change?
Trends tend to stick around for a year, sometimes more, depending on how they are received. Trends are cyclical and come back every 20-30 years.
- What does sustainable mean?
Meeting our own needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.
- Is fast fashion sustainable?
Evidence would suggest rarely, if at all
- What harm is fast fashion doing to the environment?
Excessive usage of water, plastic microfibres polluting the oceans, excessive consumption of clothing (57% of discarded clothing ends up in landfill), usage of polyester, greenhouse gas emissions (which are expected to rise by 50% within the next decade).
- How is the fashion industry killing rivers worldwide?
Fabric dye used in huge doses contains seriously hazardous materials such as mercury and lead, these kind of chemicals don’t break down and they travel through waters all around the world. These chemicals get into our drinking water, poisoning us. The whole concept of over consumption (within clothing) was introduced to us by the fashion industry in the first place, can fashion fix this?
- What chemicals are used in textile production?
Chemical finishes can be durable or non-durable and they will bind at different strengths depending on the different fibres. Sone commonly used chemicals are; Formaldehyde, citric acid, Phenols, Oxy-ethylated polyamides and Chlorinated flame retardants.
- What brands are fast fashion?
There are endless amounts; most common ones would be Primark, Boohoo, Pretty Little Thing and Shein. How to spot FF brands; thousands of styles, touching on all the recent trends. Extremely short turnaround between seeing a trend come up to it hitting the shelves. Offshore manufacturing where labour is cheapest, workers can be paid low wages and may work in awful conditions. Limited quantity of a particular garment (an idea pioneered by Zara) which means there is new stock arriving in store every few days, buyers know if they don’t snatch something up there and then it will most likely be sold out next time they try to purchase it. Utilising cheap, low quality materials like polyester, causing clothes to degrade after a few wears and with over 50% thrown away.
- Can luxury brands be fast fashion?
Since Covid we have seen a huge shift within the industry, it had been happening previously, but it seems to have escalated. The rise of high low collaborations like Simone Rocha X H&M or Giambattista Valli X H&M ensured luxury reaching a new level of accessibility. It feels the big fashion houses are envious perhaps of the fluidity these fast fashion brands have, being able to release hundreds of items whenever they please with no real rules that will sell out instantly. Pre-collections have been developed, Resort, which used to be a select small collection for winter holidays offered by the main houses, has become adopted by thousands. Pre-fall is also now popular just for the second half of the year. Social Media has definitely played a great part in this shift, we see all these campaigns coming out frequently from brands with direct links, it is all too easy to purchase the freshest of pieces. Limited drops have been adopted by many particularly streetwear brands such as Unknown London and Heaven Can Wait; their drops create huge hype and sell out in a matter of seconds. Fashion is continuing to grow as a industry and adapt in many ways post-pandemic, I just hope luxury brands continue to rule at the top and aren’t overtaken by these fast fashion giants. Fast fashion tactics have been mimicked by the big brands, but luxury is done on the whole in a much more sensible, responsible way.
- Which clothing companies are ethical?
Ethical clothing is getting easier to find as brands push for sustainability within their practices, some ethical brands that are worth checking out; Connor Ives, Frame, Laura Pitharas, Stella McCartney, Petit Pli, MaisonCléo, Re/Done, JW Anderson and Collins Strada.
- Where can I find ethical, sustainable clothing?
Depop, EBay, Etsy, Vestiaire, EVEN Instagram is great for finding small independent designers, Charity shops, Car boot sales, Vintage markets… the list is endless.
Tips for avoiding Fast Fashion
Before making a purchase ask yourself:
- Is it essential?
- Do I really need it?
- Do I already own a piece similar?
- Does is fit in with my style?
- Do many of my existing clothes go with it?
- Will it last forever, or go out of fashion quickly?
- Will I ensure I take good care of it?
- Could it be up-cycled or repurposed to ensure it lasts longer?
- What will I do with it when I no longer want it?
Black Friday returned on the 26th November… Pretty Little Thing was back!
Pretty Little Thing has built a questionable reputation from its yearly Black Friday sales, this year they returned with an even more mindless deal. The whole week of Black Friday they made sure to drop countless ‘deals’ to their teenage clientele. Offering up to 100% off everything storewide, enabling buyers to buy multiple new outfits for the price of a pair of socks. Whilst thousands jumped with glee at the thought of this ‘incredible‘ discount ( mainly the influencer world), I was relieved to see some people agreeing that this was beyond ridiculous. Dazed posted an article on Instagram and the comments did not disappoint “This brand should be boycotted”, “Which basically means you pay the wholesale price”, “ Yay lets fill the landfill with stuff made by underpaid people”, ” Cant we legally close this business already!” Pretty Little Thing of course is to blame, but I strongly feel the influencer world plays a detrimental part in the advertisement of these pieces.
Waste Age: What can design do?
Exhibition at The Design Musuem
I visited the Waste Age exhibition to find out key facts that could supplement my research. It combined shocking facts with horrific images of endless plastic waste that had been dumped around the world. On a more positive note, however, some of the true pioneers in design, furniture and other specialisms had created some groundbreaking new initiatives to hep create a more sustainably driven future for generations to come. My favourite was the glass table with the fur ring… this had been made from Agave leaves!
adDRESS THE FUTURE
adDRESS THE FUTURE came from the immense desire to have new outfits the whole time, to never have a photo taken in the same look and as a way to help combat clothing wastage. Carlings, decided to come up with a new take on clothing by creating a digital clothing collection shop. The approach is for the customer to take a photo, choose an outfit from the shop, send it to the 3D tailor who then adapts the product to your image. Ingenious you may say? Whilst this concept has become increasingly popular, feeding the desire to have more looks, more clothes that are different all the time, the all-important photographic image. This of course has zero waste and no negative footprint. Challenging the rest of the industry, this innovation left everyone mind-blown. Has the new future of fashion been discovered? Carlings have also started doing collaborations with respected brands such as MARQUES ALMEIDA and as a result there is something for everyone. With all the revenue going to WaterAid, maybe this is the sort of shopping we should be incorporating into our lives.
Auroboros
Auroboros is the first fashion house that has managed to merge science and technology with physical couture, as well as digital-only ready-to-wear. Auroboros is a member of artists working under The Sarabande Foundation, that was founded by Lee Alexander McQueen. Creating sci-fi, futuristic creations that anyone can own, sustainability has and will always be at the heart of their practices. There is a catch, each piece can only be ‘worn’ once before you have to repurchase the item. Some of the pieces available now are £1,000! To me although this approach combats all the issues identified above, but is well beyond the price-point of fast fashion. The item only lasts for one image, perhaps it could be more? This approach is not a substitute for our basic need for real clothing to keep warm and uphold modesty!
Vogue Taiwan May 2020
Vogue Taiwan produced a beautiful cover featuring digital clothing for their May issue, modelled by Jolie Chang, shot by Yii Ooi. It seems that digital clothing is really catching on, especially in Asia, will this be the undisputed future of fashion?
Vogue Portugal
Vogue Portugal September 2019 Planet Earth Is THE Trend edition
Centering on sustainability, yet studiously avoiding mentioning Stella McCartney, was Vogue Portugal's September issue's focus. Covering consumerism, perfume refills, to a 54 page special on eco-conscious clothing… it is positive to see that others are fighting for change within the industry.
Photography © Noémi Ottilia Szabo for Vogue Portugal
Model: Luca Aimee
Stylist: Lyla Cheng
Hair Stylist: Helena Narra
Makeup Artist: Sandra Flöther
Ecoalf Fall 2019 Menswear Collection
‘Because there is no planet B’
Through my research into various different aspects I want to explore further within this project, I have created three different plans to showcase my findings in the best way possible…
Idea 1
- Exclusive to fashion students.
- Party 8-12pm.
- Invite only through art unis.
- Endorsement through social media.
- Held at The Fashion and Textiles Museum.
- Chance for graduate designers to have pop-ups, network and get their designs in front of an attuned audience.
- Graduate designers will also be invited provided sustainability is core to their practices.
- Also help recent graduates in different, but related areas, collaborate (stylists and designers; journalism students to write about it etc).
- Questionnaire on sustainability for people to fill upon arrival, prior to entry.
Idea 2
- Open to the public.
- Selfridges pop-up week-long event
- Pop-up stalls with the six designers researched above; Bethany Williams, Marty Bovan, Kevin Germanier, Patrick McDowell, Charlie McCosker and Paula Mihovilovic.
- Posters around London to advertise and get the word out.
- My questionnaire for others to fill out.
- FAQ produced.
Idea 3
- Open to anyone.
- One week of Pop-up events at Whitechapel Gallery.
- Depop pop-up with some of my favourite sellers ( sellers need to apply to be accepted).
- With charities invited to blend learning and shopping.
- Charities; Fashion Takes Action, Environmental Justice Foundation, Remake, Ethical Trading Initiative.
- Targeted at anyone, raising awareness, getting the word out to shop second-hand.
- Flyers to advertise (hold shoot for them).
- Looking at fast fashion from different lenses, questionnaire, FAQ produced.
After weighing up my different ideas I have decided to go with idea 3. I feel this will appeal to the broadest demographic. Depop is something I love and it is super important to me so it feels only right that I include it. For my next stage I am going to produce a photo shoot with some of my favourite vintage pieces, the images will then be used on the flyers that will design and hand out all around London.
Xander Ang is a Stylist and Fashion Editor for Vogue Singapore, represented worldwide by Home Agency. Based between New York and Paris he has worked with the likes of Vogue Singapore, Document Journal, WINDOW 00, T Magazine Spain and HERO MAGAZINE. His styling pushes boundaries resulting in innovative, captivating creations often heavily layered with a mixture of old and new.
Shoot Plan
Look 1
- Rick Owens dust skirt.
- Black heeled boots.
- Black roll neck.
- Nike x Sacai puffer.
Look 2
- Snarl Extra Top.
- Faux fur gilet.
- Black leather skirt.
- Fur boots.
Look 3
- Pinstripe trousers.
- Waistcoat.
- Tie.
- ASICS trainers.
Look 4
- CDG Lumps and Bumps jumper.
- Rick Owens black skirt.
- Black boots.
- Tights.
Look 5
- Dilara Findikoglu top.
- Black leather skirt.
- Tights.
- Black boots.
Look 6
- Dilara Findikoglu hat.
- Black lace Victorian top.
- Dilara Findikoglu Kybele necklace.
- Red suede, leather and fur skirt.
- Black boots.
Look 1
Look 2
Look 3
Look 4
Look 5
Look 6
Flyer design 1
Flyer design 2
Flyer design 3
To conclude, I have thoroughly enjoyed the journey I have taken throughout this project. It has enabled me to create a greater in-depth understanding of sustainability, the industry and in addition I have discovered new designers and charities. The initial research stage is always enjoyable: creating mind maps; going to exhibitions and furthering my knowledge in different ways. Creating my questionnaire was something I had never done before, it enabled me to broaden my understanding of different people's knowledge of fashion and identify gaps in that knowledge. The exhibition ‘Waste Age’ at The Design Museum was essential to my uncovering facts, statistics and seeing inspiring and innovative ways to work around waste. Of course I had to include a styling shoot; which I feel is my best yet. I loved the outcomes of the different looks and my model was perfect. The shoot is beneficial for my portfolio and I am very pleased with the event flyers. This journey through this project has taught me to think more carefully about how many pieces of clothing I buy and where they come from. Overall buying second-hand won't be enough, but it is a step in the right direction. Moving forward I hope to continue developing ideas and drawing further inspiration from all aspects of sustainability to positively change fashion in future.
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